Slab repair in Acworth starts with a plain question: why did the concrete move? A crack is rarely the problem on its own. It is the slab telling you something underneath has changed, whether that is a washed-out base, a section that was never compacted properly, or water running where it should not. We repair driveways, patios, garage floors and walkways, residential and light commercial, and we treat each one as a structural question first and a surface question second. Fix the cause and the repair holds. Fill the crack alone and you will see it again.
Our work begins on the property, not over the phone. We look at how the slab has settled or lifted, where water goes after a storm, and what the joints are doing. Every site is tested individually before work starts, because the ground under one driveway can behave differently from the ground under the next. If a section has to come out, we saw-cut clean lines, remove it, rebuild and compact the base, then drill and dowel the new pour into the existing slab. Reinforcement goes where the load goes. We finish the new surface to sit flush with the old.
Failed repairs usually fail for the same few reasons. Someone poured new concrete over a soft or hollow base, so it dropped within a season. The patch sat against the old slab with nothing tying it in, and the two pieces now move separately. Control joints were skipped or cut too shallow, so the slab chose its own place to crack. Or the finish was rushed, and the new section stands out in color and texture from everything around it. None of these are hard to avoid. They just take attention at the right step, with the right materials.
Getting it right sometimes means removing more than the crack you can see. If the base has failed across a wider area, a narrow patch only moves the problem a few feet over, and we would rather say so before any saw touches the slab. It also means time. New concrete needs to cure before it takes a car's weight, and that wait is part of the job, not a delay in it. Where full replacement makes more sense than repair, we tell you plainly, even when repair would be the smaller job. Call for a free estimate on your slab.
What moves the number on a slab is mostly what sits under it and what goes into it. Thickness (four inches for a patio or shed pad, five or six for anything carrying a vehicle), rebar or wire mesh, how much grading and crushed stone base the site needs, and whether a truck can reach the pour all change the job. We measure the property and write the estimate against those details. Call for a free estimate.
A driveway fails from the bottom up, so most of our time goes into what nobody sees. We strip the topsoil, compact a crushed stone base in lifts, and set rebar on chairs so it sits mid-slab instead of on the dirt. We pour five inches thick, cut control joints about every ten feet, and broom the surface for grip. Stamped and exposed aggregate finishes are options on the same base.
Basement, garage and shop floors get a vapor barrier under the slab, because moisture wicking up through bare concrete is what lifts epoxy and loosens tile later. We compact the base, set wire mesh or fiber reinforcement, and power-trowel the surface smooth and dense. Control joints go in the same day, before the slab can pick its own crack lines. From there the floor can be sealed, stained, or ground and polished.
Not every crack means the slab has to come out. Hairline shrinkage cracks are cosmetic, and we rout and seal them. A crack that keeps widening, or a slab with one edge dropped, means the base underneath has washed out or settled, and a surface patch will not stop it. We find the cause first, then either lift and underseal the slab or saw out the failed section and pour it back with doweled joints.
Sidewalks and garden walks are usually four inches thick on a compacted gravel base, with a slight cross slope so water runs off instead of sitting on the surface. We tool control joints every four or five feet, which keeps cracking in the joints where it belongs. Tree roots are the usual reason an old walk heaves. We route new walks around them or plan for them. A broom finish is standard, and stamped borders are an option.
A repaired slab should sit flat, shed water the way it was meant to, and stop being something you step around. That is what stands behind our concrete work in Acworth. We do not rely on a certificate in a folder. What holds up a repair is the preparation underneath it, the reinforcement inside it, and the care taken with the surface on top. Ask us what we plan to do on your property and why, and you will hear the reasons in plain terms before any concrete is mixed. If an answer sounds vague, push on it.
The job begins below the slab. Soil is not the same from one property to the next, so every site is tested individually before work starts. Then we find out why the slab failed: a washed-out base, a void under one corner, a joint that let two sections drift apart. We cut out what cannot be saved, rebuild and compact the base, set new reinforcement where the structure needs it, and pour. Patching over a cause nobody has found only moves the crack a few feet. Finding it first is slower, and it is the part of the job we will not skip.
Most slab failures trace back to water or to a base that was never compacted properly. Water finds the edge of a slab, softens what sits beneath it, and the concrete settles into the gap. Cracks follow. Then trip edges, then a section that rocks underfoot. A repair that ignores drainage tends to fail along the same line as the original. So we look at where the water comes from (the downspout, the grade, the gutter that overflows) and deal with it as part of the project, not as an afterthought you discover next spring.
Getting a slab right takes more time up front than a quick patch, and more materials. The base work, the reinforcement and the proper cure time all add to the job, and none of them show once it is finished. That is the honest trade. A patch looks fine the week it goes in. A proper repair is built to keep looking that way, because the conditions that broke the first slab have been dealt with. If you are weighing the two on your own driveway, patio or garage floor, call for a free estimate and ask us which one your slab needs, and why.
Most of what sets the price on a slab repair is already sitting on your property, and you can check a good deal of it yourself. A cracked garage floor and a sunken driveway section can look alike from the street and still be very different jobs. These are the things that move the number.
| What changes the price | Which way | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Old concrete that has to be broken out first | costs more | Demolition, loading and haul-off all happen before any new concrete goes down. |
| A mixer truck that cannot back up to the pour | costs more | Concrete has to be pumped or moved in buggies, which adds equipment and hands. |
| A slab that carries vehicles, not just foot traffic | costs more | Driveways need more thickness than patios, so more concrete and deeper excavation. |
| Rebar called for instead of wire mesh | costs more | More steel, and every intersection gets tied by hand before the pour. |
| Soft or washed-out base under the old slab | costs more | Bad subgrade gets dug out, replaced with stone and compacted, or the new slab settles the same way. |
| Downspouts or low spots sending water onto the slab | costs more | Regrading or adding a drain keeps the repair from failing for the same reason. |
| Tree roots lifting the surface | costs more | Roots are cut back and sometimes a barrier goes in before we pour. |
| Damage confined to one section | costs less | We can cut out and replace, or lift, that section instead of tearing out the whole slab. |
When you set two bids side by side, look past the total. Check the thickness each one names, the reinforcement, whether removal and haul-off are included, and what each contractor plans to do about the base. A low number that skips the base work usually buys you the same crack again.
No. This site makes no licensing, bonding or insurance claims, so treat paperwork as something every contractor should show you before they start. Ask for a current license and a certificate of insurance, check the dates, and call the insurer to confirm the policy is active. It takes ten minutes. On a slab repair, where saws, breakers and loaded trucks share your property, those ten minutes are well spent.
We work across a wider stretch of metro Atlanta, not just Acworth. The same materials, the same base preparation and the same finishing standards go to every job, whether it is a cracked garage slab in town or a driveway in Woodstock. Where you live does not change how we pour, how we place reinforcement or how carefully we finish the surface. The full list of towns we cover appears elsewhere on this page.
That depends on the wall. Height, what the wall is holding back, and whether it sits near a property line or a drainage path all shape what the local building office asks for. Taller walls, and walls with a driveway or a structure above them, tend to draw more scrutiny and more paperwork. We check the current requirements for your address before any design is settled, because a guess here is expensive to undo.
Water is the main thing. Our part of metro Atlanta sees about 50 inches of rain a year, and a patio that holds water, or lets it run underneath, will settle and crack long before it should. Snow barely figures, at about 2 inches a year. So we grade every patio to shed water away from the house, compact the base properly and size the reinforcement to the load. Every site is tested individually before work starts.
Several towns across metro Atlanta, all of them listed in the service area section of this page. Each one is served on the same terms: the same estimate process, the same crew standards, the same attention to base preparation and finish. A stamped patio in one town gets exactly the care a slab repair in the next one does. If you are unsure whether your address falls inside that area, call and ask for a free estimate.
Cutting is done wet wherever the surface allows it, which keeps most of the dust out of the air and off your windows. We break old concrete into manageable sections rather than hammering the whole slab at once, keep the loudest work to normal daytime hours, and load debris straight onto the truck instead of piling it in the yard. Paths to your doors stay open. Any area that is off limits is clearly marked.